Moved but Not Forgotten, Savelberg Michelin 1 Star Thrives in New Neighborhood

Some of you may have wondered where Savelberg restaurant may have disappeared too, no they didn’t fall into the tragic abyss of the COVID pandemic curse, they’ve just moved locale from Wireless Road to Yennakart and by all means, moved on up in that regard! 

Chef Henk Savelberg of Savelberg restaurant has out-starred many in that he has managed to retain a star to his restaurant’s name every year since 2020’s Michelin Thailand Guide first edition, and even managed to retain his team which only most could envy especially during these past years. 

“The Covid pandemic brought a major challenge to the entire hospitality sector and while layoffs have been rife in the hospitality industry, Chef Henk Savelberg retained all of its employees. The pandemic could not have happened at a worse time for Chef Henk as he had already invested heavily in its new restaurant but he decided to follow-through”, reads the Savelberg Press Release. 

Driving up a narrow street in the Yennakart district is a facade that you’ll least expect. The restaurant’s outer wall, much like a steel corrugated shipping container surface but a pristine version, is understated but striking. The Savelberg signboard light and two young gentlemen in well cut service suits are the final indication that you’ve arrived at the right place. 

Inside and inexplicably (likely only to me) the room’s space, furniture and decor reminds me of the Jetsons. If anyone is old enough to recall the cartoon based on a quirky family in a utopian futuristic setting, you may just get my meaning. All white, tabletop linen, curved pleather chairs and absolutely minimal colour and embellishments. All which is fitting to the restaurant concept, modern European with a touch of the ‘old skool’. 

The Savelberg Experience ( 6 Course ) menu lists titles of dishes under a single protein or key ingredient. The SQUID, OYSTER were a simple delight but the MACARON was exceptionally sweet for a start although I enjoyed its surprising chewyness which I believed to be their intention. 

The BLUE CRAB is refreshing and not out of the ordinary, the SCALLOP was simply divine, with fennel and dutch soya vinaigrette, a very Savelberg dish where product takes center stage and ingredients that tend to remind you of cool blue seas and crisp weather with a slight sharpness in the air, a sharpness which reflects Chef Henk Savelberg signature touch, an element of tart or sourness. 

Although many ingredients are shipped super fresh from overseas, we were pleased to see GranMonte Vineyard and Winery’s Viognier make it onto the Savleberg wine pairing program and an excellent choice for complimenting the plentiful fresh seafood dishes. 

The SOLE, unlike the typical French version, is served as a fat and juicy morsel of fish with no imprint or presence of bone. The Sole is succulent and clean and the sweet and sour shallots, pommes souffles, sea grapes  make it a fine and simply satisfying experience.

Most outstanding was the PIGEON, a Pan Seared Anjou Pigeon with Seaweed Potato, Grape and Vanilla Sauce stuffed with foie gras. I suspect this is one that most admires and fits into the French Cuisine familiarity. I almost wish it didn’t follow the LANGOUSTINE with Passion Fruit Sauce, Pomelo, Cashew Nut with Homemade Fish Sauce and Coriander, although on its own, a playful take on a popular Thai dish but a little awkward in line with the rest. 

The STRAWBERRY dessert with Strawberry, Choux, Sablé, Mascarpone and Strawberry Crémeux is a sight for sore eyes, absolutely stunning to look at and best of all, to taste. The light and tart flavours and freshness of strawberries ends off a fine dining meal as it always should be, content and ‘twinkle- toed’.

The Savelberg Experience ( 6 Course ) 
4,450 THB ++

Savelberg
136, 1 Yen Akat 2 Alley, Chong Nonsi, Yan Nawa, Bangkok 10120

Hours:
– Monday to Friday from 6.00 pm – 10.00 pm
– Saturday to Sunday from 12.00 pm – 2.00 pm and 6.00 pm – 10.00 pm
Tel: +66 (0)2 252 8001
Email: reservation@savelbergth.com
Facebook / Instagram : Savelberg Thailand

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