CHAR, a highly polished Grill Room

Bangkok Foodies Review- CHAR Bangkok

CHAR at Indigo Hotel has all the appearance of a highly polished Grill Room cum Speakeasy which is all well and good but a concept I feel I’ve seen once too many. Besides the rather garish looking “Thaiwood” vintage mural, everything appears to be pleasantly in order; Luscious seating, shiny wall features, contemporary light fixtures, and CHAR’s “highest” advantage, their unobstructed, stunning panoramic Bangkok view which twinkles magnificently back at you. (The rooftop bar is awesome by the way, but lets not get distracted)

CHAR Indigo Hotel Bangkok #bangkokfoodies

We meet, the new and surprisingly fresh-faced Chef Nikolas Ramirez, who formally trained at Gaggan and worked at 22 Kitchen and Bar at the Dusit Thani. A tall and dark, boyish looking gentleman, with a cool disposition and worldly demeanor, prompts us try a variety of plates inspired by his Hawaiian-Mexican-American heritage. I was dubious yet enthralled just by the thought of it.

CHAR Indigo Hotel Bangkok #bangkokfoodies

First came the Rosa’s tacos (family recipe) and I knew we were in trouble (think Bangkok Foodies best Mexican smackdowns). These were about the best “tacos” I’ve had in my life. “Rustic” is the word that comes to mind. Apparently Nikolas imports a special corn-flour to create this authentic “taco” shell recipe, which he fills with roasted chili peppers and tops with fluffy cheddar cheese. You would never guess it was a vegetarian dish!

CHAR Indigo Hotel Bangkok #bangkokfoodies

The North Pacific Black Cod with tomato salsa and mango relish, was the most foreign, in taste and appearance. The combination of flavours were pleasantly smoky, sweet, sour, salty – Definitely an ‘Umami’ thing happening there. And when your knife penetrates the Cod, it splits like butter but retains its beautifully firm texture.

CHAR Indigo Hotel #bangkokfoodies

The Loco Moco, is typically a Hawaiian rice burger. Nikolas’s version appears deceptively haphazard. The open burger is served with a risotto-like rice, marinated with house-cured black garlic. On top of the rice sits a runny quail egg and a delightfully crisp and rich piece of foie gras with mushroom gravy. What you get is an outstanding yet delicate layer of creaminess, smokiness, sweetness and earthiness. An shining example of a classic dish, turned up a thousand notches.

CHAR Indigo Hotel #bangkokfoodies

 There’s plenty more, but I’m not about to critique every dish, but let’s say despite a few trivial details – ‘tomato sauce’ dressing was slightly overpowering, the reappearing garnish of radish was detrimental, or that the tomatoes in the Cod were sliced too chunky – an eclectic fusion such as this, has never been attempted or succeeded in Bangkok, at this level.

Nikolas’s multi-faceted world has led him to this moment. Unique multicultural upbringing, travels and fond family memories have cultivated these original recipes. Discovering this “fresh” perspective, also reveals a new-era for the creative culinary scene. By skill, Nikolas has mastered the impossible accuracy of “fusion”, making it no longer a dirty word.

Question is, will Nikola’s unconventional methods continue to flourish within the confines of a “contemporary grill” luxury hotel chain, or could it be the case of fitting a star peg into a square hole? Whatever the result, don’t wait to try, if Chef Nikolas continues on this path, attracting a few heavyweight visitors may arrive sooner than we think.

 

 

Char Bar Indigo hotel Bangkok
81 Wireless Road, Lumpini Pathumwan
Bangkok, Thailand 10330
02 207 4999
www.charbangkok.com
Hours 6:00PM – 12:00AM