The House on Sathorn

Bangkok Foodies Review – The House on Sathorn

New Turkish Inspired Menu at The Dining Room.
Things have really changed at The House on Sathorn, on my first visit I was not greatly impressed, more so, I didn’t really understand the menu story or where Chef Fatih was coming from.

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Was it Molecular Japanese or European x Asian Fusion? Or Mama’s recipe-turning Japanese-a? It all got a bit lost in translation, so I was pleased to see Chef Fatih take it back to his Turkish roots, and the improvement was much felt.

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Although he still adds his ‘touch’ of Japan, essentially his new Turkish inspired menu speaks in a language we can mostly understand. I absolutely loved the UMAMI of ANATOLIA fresh tomatoes from Kyota combined with feta dashi and parsley, it was two worlds colliding but instead of crashing, they melded into one another.

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THE BLACK SEA of corn meal, kashkaval cheese and kale was by far the most technically adept dish. How he managed so many flavours and texures of corn is evident of how far Chef Fatih has come or how hard he is working to justify and retain his position on the Asia’s 50 Best list, although some industry folks may doubt.

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THE CALAMRI DOLMA was also a stunning little addition to the menu, with a whole tender squid cooked to a buttery consistency, combined with ink and sugar snap peas was a palatable and visual delight.

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On the least likable end were the BOSPHORUS BLACK MUSSEL, which were mostly texture and charcoal yet presented fancifully and as much as I enjoyed the HALLUCINATION OF WINTER (nagano grapes with yogurt and atsina) it’s difficult to get over the many theatrics.

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Understandably THE HOUSE ON SATHORN is a beautiful destination designed to appeases to tourist’s and luxury travellers, but blowing away the smoke screen is a often the truest testament. Another bone I have to pick is the wine pairing or lack thereof, in terms of a making a complimentary selection with each meal – it was off – way off. We had the same issue last year.

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It didn’t however spoil the entire experience which was overall a positive one and Chef Fatih is the most gracious and vivacious of host with everyone in the room gravitating toward his positive energy.

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For the SIGNATURE JOURNEY 3,800THB++, VOYAGE, 2800++ ( 5 mezze, 8 tasting plates + tea and coffee) I believe is a fair price to ask compared to the market pricing, for fine quality produce along with the work that is put in front of you. Chef Fatih has made the right decision to base his dishes on what he is most in-tune with, emotionally and technically.

Most admirably Chef Fatih has bravely soldiered on, ignoring whispers, and stepped up to the plate. Whether judges notice or acknowledge this revolution and the menu as a serious contender, only time will tell.

The House on Sathorn
106,108 North Sathorn Road, Silom, Bangrak
Bangkok, Thailand 10500
Bookings: 02 344 4000
www.thehouseonsathorn.com
Hotel · Diner · Bar
Hours 12:00PM – 12:00AM
#BangkokFoodies#thediningroom