Sfizio – the ultimate slice of Italy in Bangkok
Bangkok Foodies Review – Stizio
Can’t keep this place to myself anymore!! Now on my top of my list for favourite casual food haunts.
Sfizio was one of those strange and playful words that kept popping up between foodies and Chefs chatter. I just HAD to check it out, although it took me a long time to do so, and again a long time to share with you, but I’ve determined this is the gift of Sfizio – the ultimate, underrated yet overwhelming slice of Italy in Bangkok.
The Italian duo, reminiscent but less like the traditional Papa-Mama of Italy are more like long-time homies, worldly and passionate in European food culture but in a subdued fashion. The relaxing vibe is infectious. Sfizio sit’s quietly in a soi off Asoke, Bangkok’s famously manic main road.
Chef Diego slogs away, cooking his heart out in the back, while host Christian diligently looks after the front of house. The black and white theme with a hint of Italy’s national colours offers a sense of modernity. The warmth is felt by mood lighting, wood furniture and black & white portraits which hang in symmetry on the wall. I’m particularly enamoured by Sfizio’s elongated layout, checker floors and old-skool funk music. I was less charmed by their granite-hard booth seating. C’mon boys, get some cushions on there!
With the little knowledge I have about traditional pasta types, I do know that trying to compare ‘fresh’ pastas to shop-bought is inconceivable and any attempt to prove such will likely lead to a slap on the head. Sfizio’s signature fresh Orecchiette e cime di rapa “ear pasta” 300++, may be underwhelming to the untrained eye but the tiny pocket of pasta with anchovy, chili, and turnip tops floating in a shallow pool of deeply coloured Virgin olive oil was absolutely explosive. Immediately I’m transported Italy’s coast, sipping Bellini, sunny my face and inhaling the Adriatic blue sea.
The Pappardelle pasta 290++ was also sensational, the Bolognese meat sauce a lot less punchy to what I’m accustomed to but this comes down to ‘realness’. The effect of tasting the produce Vs fancying with quirky ingredients or masking with manufactured sauces. I discovered a newfound appreciation for one of my all-time favourite dish.
The starters such as the Tuna Tartare, Octopus Carpaccio are also delicate in flavour but honest in taste. Lastly on the pasta front and the most effectual was the Porcini (semolina gnocchi with italian pork sausage and porcini mushrooms) 390++. I adored this pellet shaped gnocci. The sauce is deeply satisfying with it’s rich meaty flavour. A winter weight dish which will warm the cockles of your pseudo cold bones.
And the pizzas you ask? Well, also excellent, but I don’t want to bore you with the obvious. Bangkok has spoiled us with great Pizza makers, but I believe the fresh pasta title is still open to debate.
At Sfizio there’s no garish Italian souvenirs or any loud or boorish gesture coming from the kitchen or elsewhere. There’s no slick Italian man crooning from the speakers or wine menu which requires a leather binder. It’s low key, it’s casual, it’s classy – all rolled into one. Sfizio, like the name translates (a whim), taps into deep nostalgic culinary desires. Seemingly simple traditional Italian dishes, where skill set and quality produce speak loudly for themselves.
So, how long will it be until all of Bangkok is able to hear? I don’t know about that, but the real question is, are we too selfish to want them too?
Sfizio – Italian Social Cuisine – Asoke, Bangkok
44/4 Sukhumvit 21
Phone: 02 262 0405
6:00PM – 10:30PM