Finding Frenchness – Brasserie Cordonnier Review
Classic French Food in Sukhumvit Soi 11 - Bangkok Foodies Mini Review
Bangkok Foodies Review – Brasserie Cordonnier
Brasserie Cordonnier on Soi 11 sticks out like a sore thumb among the girlie bars and decrepit restaurants, and from the outset, it hardly compels you. This particular brasserie likely has the most comprehensive list of French classics without trying to modernize their menu nor cater to the older (set-in-their-ways) French crowd as many other bistros in Bangkok tend to.
Only after entering the brasserie is when you gasp at her beauty.. Bright and airy, the space is fitted with French leather Banquette seatings, black and white French tiles, French bistro chairs and stunning mirrors with vintage prints that line the wall and stretch towards the ceiling. It’s like walking into a romantic movie set, but you’re one of the few cast who showed up.
The food doesn’t disappoint, the Tartiflette will put you back in front of a fire in the French Alps, the Escargot also warms you to your toes with its earthy butteriness.
The oysters and mussels were exceptionally fresh and delightful although the mussel “sauce” needed a little more oomph.
Tartare de boeuf – one of my absolute faves – was excellently balanced though the entrecote and duck with foie gras stood out the most; tender, juicy and potent to taste.
My least favourite was the Saucisse Toulouse, which felt too fatty and lacking in dimension but my French partner assured me that’s how it’s supposed to be. Hearty and heavy on the tongue.
The other was the foie gras terrine. The texture was just OK, and the taste was pleasing enough, but I admit, I’m a little pedantic about my foie gras with the amount eaten over the years. I wonder about the state of my liver.
Cordonnier has diligently ticked all the boxes: from great decor to menu and services, a seemingly foolproof formula.
Yet, despite an array of well-executed dishes that would make any homesick French patriot or France-lover fall into a deep state of nostalgia, it lacks the one key element, and that is ‘warmth’.
It’s lacking the warmth in an atmosphere and in a crowd. There’s also something that borders on contrived, one indication are the motivational Chef’s quotes on place mats.
Is it possible that the name doesn’t translate (Cordonnier = Cobbler) with food, or the over-branding (from plate to cup to paper place mat)? Could it be the location isn’t right for its niche, or simply it’s still a young starlet waiting to be discovered.
33/30 Soi Sukhumvit 11
Opening Hours: Everyday 6pm – 12am
Tel: 02 038 5113